The 2016 Auxey-Duresses Blanc Les Clous wafts from the glass with notes of lemon oil, smoke, dried white flowers and praline. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, extraordinarily layered and satiny, with fabulous depth and length. Only in the context of the d'Auvenay portfolio can this be described as a relatively humble wine, as it would embarrass many producers' Meursault premiers crus.