The dark, murky garnet-colored 1990 Brunello di Montalcino offers sweet, gamey, earthy fruit in the nose, along with a suggestion of smoked meats, hickory wood, and cedar/tobacco. The wine is ageworthy, but austere, medium to full-bodied, and ferociously tannic. The high tannin level is cause for concern, but if it melts away, this wine may merit an even higher score. Potential purchasers should recognize that it needs at least 3-4 years of cellaring; it should keep for 15+ years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200