One of the few growers based in this appellation who is hand-harvesting, Frederic Mabileau’s basic cuvee 2007 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Les Rouilleres smells of mulberry with hints of shrubbery, but overall its flavors are satisfyingly ripe and plumb some of the nutty depths and saline, chalky, smoky mineral inflections of which Cabernet Franc is capable in these soils. Bitter hints of fruit skin and pungent black pepper accompany the juicy, satisfyingly long finish.I did not have a chance to catch up on all of the many new releases from Jo Landron, so there are certainly other excellent values than these at this address.A Jon-David Headrick Selection, Asheville, NC; tel. (828) 252-8245; also imported by Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476