The 2008 “CALDA BORDALEZA” is, not surprisingly, a Bordeaux blend—45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 25% Petit Verdot. Like most of Campolargo’s wines here, this has a lot of acidity and an elegant mid-palate. Not overly concentrated, this is still a little more tightly wound than most, slightly austere, rather crisp early on. It comes around well, though, drinking nicely and coming into balance, but eventually thinning and seeming a touch tart. Pleasant enough, in this vintage it needed a little more substance. Drink now-2018. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155