The San Felice 2014 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni (with 70,000 bottles made) takes an extra minute or two to open. On first inspection, the wine shows reduced aromas of flint and ash. Give it time, and the bouquet opens to show wild berry, tar, licorice, teriyaki spice and crushed stone. This bouquet speaks to a very specific Brunello consumer who likes the balsamic and smoky-mineral characteristics that can emerge with Sangiovese. This is a mid-weight effort that needs a few more years of bottle aging before it fully opens.
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