The dense ruby/purple-tinged 2009 St.-Joseph is filled with notes of cherry liqueur, raspberries, smoke and licorice intermixed with a wet rock-like component. Full-bodied and opulent, with lower acidity than the 2010, it will keep for a decade or more. Perret has long been one of the northern Rhone's finest producers of white wines, and over the last decade he has also raised the quality of his red wines as evidenced by these two vintages of St.-Joseph. Unfortunately, this is not a large domaine, and the Perret wines can be difficult to find. Importer: Europvin, www.europvin.com