Amazing. Uncompromisingly taut, with a firm backbone of toasted oak, impeccably pure, ripe fruit and bursting acidity, this is anything but a "soft" '95 white Burgundy. In fact, it's tough as hell. But it has supple, thick, opulent texture, and offers loads of pleasure once you get the hang o' this terroir-driven white Burgundy. Best after 2008. -PM