More reserved, the 2019 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru unwinds in the glass to reveal scents of sweet berries, plums, licorice, warm spices, rose petals and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, seamless and perfumed, it's deep and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit that's framed by velvety tannins and lively acids. It will reward patience, though its structural elegance and the inherent charm of the vintage mean that it's far from forbidding right now.