Very lush, very flavorful, a wine that floods the palate with ripe blackberries, currants, mocha, licorice and pepper spice, yet is also quite tannic and dry. It cries out for rich beef and hard cheeses, the kind of fare that coaxes out a wine’s sweetness. From veteran winemaker Nils Venge.——S.H.(6/1/2009)—— 88