In 1996, Niellon produced a Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees (from a parcel he has taken on en metayage). Its elegant, feminine, white peach and floral nose is followed by an explosive, fat, full-bodied and fruit-filled personality. Thick layers of spiced pears, lychee nuts, minerals, gooseberries and sweet new oak are found in this immensely rich wine. Projected maturity: 2000-2009. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.