Pertimali’s 2005 Fili di Seta, from vineyards in Montalcino, is a blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak. The fruit positively explodes on the palate, with layers of wild cherries, grilled herbs, spices and tobacco. The aromas and flavors are already a touch forward, and the Fili di Seta doesn’t look to be built for the long-term. It should provide fabulous drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. I have to admit Pertimali has become a big question mark over the last few years. Like many readers, I was weaned on the great Brunellos of the 1980s and 1990s that built the estate’s reputation. More recently, though, I have encountered far more variability than should be the case with a property of this level – or any level – for that matter. I have also received quite a few emails from readers describing an unusually high level of bottle variation. Unfortunately this year I can’t recommend Pertimali’s wines from their Querciolina property in Maremma. Both the 2007 Montecucco Sangiovese and 2007 Maremma Toscana show serious technical flaws that harm not only Pertimali, but an entire region that is struggling to prove its relevance. The typical reader might very well ask if the Montecucco appellation is capable of yielding noteworthy wines at all when one of Tuscany’s most storied estates can’t seem to get it right, which is a real shame and an injustice to all of the hard working, diligent producers of that area. For now, I urge readers to taste the Pertimali wines before making any purchasing decisions. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769