The 2006 Barolo Vigna La Villa Paiagallo flows with layers of dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar, showing superb concentration. The 2006 possesses a decidedly more classic texture and feel than has been the case in other recent vintages. Despite its sheer power, the tannins remain remarkably harmonious for such a young Barolo. This is a fabulous vintage for the Paiagallo. Fontanafredda remains one of the great mysteries of Piedmont. The estate owns some of the very finest vineyards in the entire region. Still, far too many wines remain undistinguished. That said, important strides are being made at the high-end. As part of his massive rebranding exercise, proprietor Oscar Farinetti has removed the Lazzarito bottling from the Fontanafredda lineup and added it to the Mirafiore offerings, also reviewed in this issue. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799