2009 was a drought year and was affected by frost in April, so yields were very low. The 2009 Vermentino (bottled under screwcap) has a nose reminiscent of bottle-aged Riesling: petrol, smoke, gunflint and candle wax with lemon peel, baked quince and golden apple plus notes of dried hay, lime peel and pineapple. Medium-bodied, it's still wonderfully fresh in the mouth, opening to notions of lime peel, lemongrass and dried pineapple with honeyed touches, broadly textured but with juicy acidity, finishing very long and nuanced. Wow! This is drinking beautifully right now! 420 cases were made.

The 2009 Vermentino, which is screw-cap finished and already in bottle, is light, crisp, not quite as intense as previous vintages (they had 12 inches of rain in this region on October 13), but delicious and fresh, with plenty of zesty, tart lime and lemon notes. Drink it over the next year. Robert Haas, the iconic French wine importer, who was one of the first to bring estate-bottled French wines into the United States, continues to go from strength to strength at Tablas Creek. His partner remains the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape. They have had three tiny vintages in a row, all producing very small yields, but the quality of their 2007s is the best in the history of the winery, and 2008 is certainly a strong vintage as well. These are wonderful, food-friendly wines with considerable complexity. While they do some varietal naming, the strength of Tablas Creek is their extraordinary Rhone Ranger blends, whether white or red. The 2009 vintage turned out to be an even smaller crop than 2008 and 2007 as a result of spring frost.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314