Absolutely magnificent is the opaque ruby/purple 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Felix. Notes of root beer/beet root interwoven with roasted Provencal herbs, black currants and even blacker fruits such as blackberries are prominent in this full-bodied, concentrated wine, which has fabulous fruit, sumptuous, a deep, multi-layered texture and a sensational finish of close to 40+ seconds. Acidity is present and there is precision and uplift to the big, bold flavors the 2010 Cuvee de Felix possesses. Drink it over the next 15+ years. This has been a reliable producer for at least two decades, capably administered by the Versino family. The classic cuvee is traditional Chateauneuf du Pape and the Cuvee de Felix is still made within that framework but slightly riper and denser. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191

A twenty-year wine, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Felix boasts a gorgeous deep ruby/purple color along with abundant notes of sweet kirsch liqueur, loamy soil, forest floor and lavender. Layers of fruit and glycerin, an unctuous texture and a full-bodied mouthfeel result in a savory, succulent, generously endowed wine to drink over the next two decades. (Not yet released)As at many Chateauneuf du Pape estates, brothers Jean and Jean-Paul Versino have 38 acres of vines split among 27 different parcels, nearly equally divided between the southern and northern sectors of the appellation. The Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a blend of 65% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre as well as tiny dollops of such obscure grapes as Cinsault and Counoise. The luxury offering, Cuvee de Felix, comes from 80-100 year old vines and is composed of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre, 5% Syrah and 5% miscellaneous varietals. The traditional cuvee is aged in wood foudres and the Cuvee de Felix in small, old oak barrels. The 2010s reveal denser purple colors as well as more acidity, structure and tannin, fruit and extract.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191