This mature wine opens with rich apple and caramel aromas. The bead is excellent, the mouthfeel still taut and bracingly dry, showing the high acidity seen in many 1988s. Displays bitter-citrus, herb and apple-skin flavors and a long lemon and spice finish with a burnt matchstick element. Tasters noted the dichotomy between the seductive, ripe nose and lean palate. This may need even more time. ——W.E.(12/15/2001)—— 89
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