The 1989, like many of its peers in this vintage, has aged at a glacial pace. The color is still a dark plum/ruby, and the nose exhibits dusty sweet and sour cherry aromas intermixed with licorice, herbs, leather, and meat. While tight in the mouth, and medium to full-bodied, with high tannin, it possesses good balance. I suspect it is behaving like many 1978s did at a similar age. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2016.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The odd man out was the 1989 Chateauneuf du Pape. Showing hints of oxidation and toasted nut in its evolved, spice-filled profile, it shows good concentration and mid-palate depth, but also some dry tannin on the finish. It certainly lacks the charm found in the other vintages here, and should be drunk sooner rather than later. Another bastillion of traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, Vieux Donjon is owned by Lucien and Marie Jose Michel, with the winemaking now firmly in the hands of their talented daughter, Claire Michel. They produce a single red and white Chateauneuf du Pape, with the red always a rough blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the balance a mix of other permitted varieties. They started partial destemming in 1993, pulling out the green stems and keeping the more lignified stems. Aging occurs all in concrete tanks and older foudre. This was a fabulous tasting with both Claire and her brother Francois, and as I hope the notes show, the wines have classic Chateauneuf du Pape character and broad drink windows. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173