The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is dominated by Grenache with major amounts of Mourvedre, Syrah and other authorized varietals. Its dense ruby/plum color is followed by aromas of smoked meats, roasted Provencal herbs, a gamy character and lots of kirsch, black currant and blue fruits. Rich and full-bodied, it is softer than most young vintages of Vieux Donjon tend to be, and should drink well for 12-15 years. Now that Lucien Michel has inched his way into retirement, his young daughter, Claire, who did an apprenticeship at Napa’s Harlan Estate, is in full control of the winemaking (another example of a woman who has taken charge of a famous estate).Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Rock-solid, with a big, winey core of cassis, blackberry paste and crushed fig fruit pushed by smoldering tobacco, juniper, mesquite and warm, bittersweet cocoa notes. The muscular finish has lots of grip in reserve. Best from 2013 through 2024. -JM