Produced from declassified Clos des Lambrays (50% of the final assemblage) and two premier cru vineyards, La Riotte and the little known Le Village, the 2003 Morey-St.-Denis Les Loups is the finest I’ve tasted from Domaine des Lambrays. It displays black raspberry, plum, blackberry, and boldly spicy aromas. On the palate, this medium to full-bodied wine is ample, satin-textured, and reveals gorgeous depth as well as richness. Chocolate-covered blackberries are intermingled with spices, asphalt, and black raspberries in its ripe, structured, persistent character. Projected maturity: 2009-2017. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Cinnamon and sandalwood mark the aromas in this soft, cooked black cherry- and oak-tinged red. Dense tannins hold court on the finish. Drink now through 2012. 75 cases imported. -BS