The 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Les Loups functions as the second label of the Clos de Lambrays, combining the fruit of young wines in the Clos with that of two small premier cru parcels near the winery. (So it is in fact 1er Cru in class.) Rhubarb and black cherry aromas usher in an expansive palate displaying smoked meat and bright fruit tinged with cedar, spruce, and brown spices. The abundant tannins are fine-grained and finely-distributed. There is something of a sweet - tart bifurcation on the palate that may resolve itself, and the long finish is invigoratingly savory, juicy, and saline. Thierry Brouin fermented largely whole clusters (“I’m a partisan of vendange entier,” he says, “provided the stems are ripe”) and engaged in a more active regimen of punch downs than was typical this year. The result is structure to spare, and wines that make no concessions to early flattery. Unlike the wines of most vintners, Brouin’s 2005s underwent malo-lactic fermentation on a “normal” schedule, i.e. Spring, 2006. Also recommended: 2005 Morey-St. Denis ($60.00-65.00; 86+?). Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.

Very spicy in aroma, with sandalwood, mint and blackberry. Dense and firmly tannic on the palate, with a core of fruit that resonates on the finish. This is balanced, but needs time. Best from 2012 through 2022. 100 cases imported. -BS