The 1996 Seleccion Especial has more intensity but not quite the same level of complexity as the 1994, with that minty leitmotif: touches of blackberry and boysenberry intermingling with marmalade. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It is nicely rounded in texture but perhaps a little attenuated towards the finish, whereas the ‘94 fans out across the mouth. Drink now-2017. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Still fresh, this graceful, maturing red offers plum, raisin, licorice, tobacco and cedar flavors on a balanced frame, with fresh acidity and just enough tannin for grip. Drink now through 2005. 2,000 cases made.??–TM??Region: Spain / Rioja Select to Add