The 2005 RESERVA OLD VINES (7,500 cases produced from 70 year old vines) is the latest in a long line of Crasto Old Vines bottlings that I have generally found to be among the Douro’s best bargains, usually exceptional wines for relatively reasonable money. This bottling is a creature of its vintage, more reserved, compact and lighter than the 2003 and 2004, yet with charming, refreshing and pristine fruit. It takes a good hour or so before there is any structure apparent, at which point I was relieved to see some power and some grip on the finish. This isn’t as shy as it first appears, and in fact it has intensity to go with its tasty fruit and soft texture. Over two hours of aeration it became more, not less, perceptibly tannic, and it kept improving for some five hours in a decanter—not a bad performance for a wine you can probably get on the street for around $30. It is also enlivened by some brightness on the finish. Notwithstanding the many charms of this fine, persistent and graceful wine, I would give the nod to the decadent 2003 or the delicious 2004 in recent vintages. Its oak treatment seems far more neutral than on the 2003, though. Drink 2009-2019. Importer: Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, Ca.; (415) 931-1725.

The wine is certainly dry, concentrated, showing both new wood and strong tannins. But what this wine makes pleasureable is the juicy raspberry and black plum cordial flavors, followed by a dark herbal aftertaste.——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 90