A Languedoc veteran and formative force of the Pic Saint-Loup sub-appellation, Jean Orliac has clearly not been satisfied to rest on his reputation. His 2005 Coteaux du Languedoc Bergerie Classique Blanc – a tank-rendering of 10% Roussanne with equal parts Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Viognier – smells of clover, apple and cress. Juicy but soft on the palate, with positive hints of lees, it offers pungent, faintly bitter herbal and floral nuances over a base of apple, peach and citrus, finishing with subtle saltiness. (Orliac’s more ambitious, barrel-fermented “Grande Cuvee” white was marginally less interesting.) Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565