As in 2020 (and in so many vintages, for that matter), the 2021 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is the wine that's the least defined of the vintage, soaring from the glass with notes of raspberries, cherries, bergamot, violets and peonies. Full-bodied, pure and seamless, it's ample and satiny, with melting tannins, vibrant acids and a long, perfumed finish.

Racy but drying out slightly now. It shows a ruby color with a garnet edge. Medium-bodied with bright acidity and fine tannins. Some undergrowth to the orange peel and strawberry fruit. Drink or hold.