The 2005 La Serenne comes from the Boushey Vineyard, a cooler site. Its aromatics are at least as impressive as its sibling’s with aromas of smoke, meat, chocolate, and blueberry leaping from the glass. Velvety-textured, dense, and rich, the wine has remarkable concentration and great integration of the oak, tannin, and acidity. It has enough structure to evolve for 4-6 years and should drink well through 2024. As an aside, I tasted a barrel sample of a 2006 Petit Verdot from the Ciel du Cheval Vineyard of which there are only two barrels (50 cases). Were it to be bottled separately, I would rate it (97-100). However, Bob Betz, informed me just prior to going to press that he has decided to blend it into the 2006 Pere de Famille. Oh well? Tel. (425) 861-9823; www.betzfamilywinery.com

This 100% Syrah, all from the Boushey vineyard, sends up fragrances of sweet fruit, moist earth, leaf and smoked meat. Nuanced and evocative, this changes minute to minute in the glass. The mouthfeel can only be called voluptuous, wrapping the generous blue and purple fruit flavors in sweet, toasty oak. The alcohol is just under 15%, but the fruit carries it without losing some of the detail that this outstanding vineyard can offer. Flashes of pepper and rock continue to light up the smooth, seductive finish.——P.G.(5/1/2008)—— 94