Another upgrade in the huge hierarchy at Yalumba, the Hand Picked selections are all impressive. My favorite of this trio is the 2002 Mourvedre/Grenache/Shiraz (a nearly identical blend of 60% Mourvedre, 25% Grenache, and 15% Shiraz), perhaps because it has had more time to gain nuances as well as complexity. It is a beautiful smoky, earthy red, offering hints of ground pepper, roasted meats, new saddle leather, black fruits, and Provencal herbs. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

Sixty percent Mourvedre, with Grenache and Shiraz getting 30% and 10%, respectively. The texture’s great—a little rough around the edges, but that’s part of its charm. Juicy mixed plums on the palate get a strong kick of black pepper, which you’ll also pick up on the nose. I see plenty of food-pairing potential here (lamb or rabbit, for starters), though winemaker Jane Ferrari says that cheese is the way to go. ——D.T.(2/1/2004)—— 91