Another upgrade in the huge hierarchy at Yalumba, the Hand Picked selections are all impressive. The outstanding 2004 Mourvedre/Grenache/Shiraz (60%, 21%, and 19% respectively) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with a big, earthy perfume of blueberries, black currants, fresh mushrooms, tree bark, and spice. Superbly concentrated, with medium to full body and a long finish, it should drink well for 4-6 years. Importer: Negociants, USA, Napa CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

On the nose, it’s all black cherry. Black peppercorns rule the palate, which also offers a smooth, claylike feel and hints of red plums. Imported by Negociants USA, Inc. ——D.T.(2/1/2006)—— 90