High-toned maraschino cherry and red raspberry reserves and distillate scent the Drouhin 2008 Charmes-Chambertin (from the “true” Charmes, and not yet bottled when I tasted it). A combination of sweetness of red fruit preserves and rhubarb-like tartness is invigorating rather than at all inharmonious; and cherry pit bitterness, pungent brown spices, and chalk add contrast in the finish. This is not the grandest of Charmes bottlings but it delivers a lot of immediate stimulation; is tough to beat for sheer sweetness of fruit; and should keep well and perhaps gain complexity for the better part of a decade. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

High-toned maraschino cherry and red raspberry reserves and distillate scent the Drouhin 2008 Charmes-Chambertin (from the “true” Charmes, and not yet bottled when I tasted it). A combination of sweetness of red fruit preserves and rhubarb-like tartness is invigorating rather than at all inharmonious; and cherry pit bitterness, pungent brown spices, and chalk add contrast in the finish. This is not the grandest of Charmes bottlings but it delivers a lot of immediate stimulation; is tough to beat for sheer sweetness of fruit; and should keep well and perhaps gain complexity for the better part of a decade. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

Structured, concentrated, a wine that shows power from both fruit and tannins. The opulent strawberry flavors are paralleled by firm, dry tannins. As the combination comes together, this will become a glorious wine.——R.V.(7/1/2011)—— 95