Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz, Wachau, Austria

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I found Pichler’s more voluminous (as well as more expensive) 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz just a tad disappointing. Still, its aromatic melange of peppermint, oregano and white pepper as well as its undeniably rich, faintly oily palate are attention-getting, if only there were more follow-through on the finish. (Possibly I caught the wine at an awkward stage.) Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700