The organic Umani Ronchi 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Vecchie Vigne is one of the standout wines in this report. I love the vertical drive and energy supplied by this pretty white wine from old vines. The estate does not use the Riserva denomination on this line, but this wine would qualify as such. Fruit comes from a vineyard that was planted in 1971 in Montecarotto. The wine was first made in 2001 (although the 2002 vintage was skipped), and the style saw more fruit maturity back then. Today, the aim is freshness, minerality and aromatic lift. I'd say that those goals are achieved in this beautiful wine.