The 1990 Chardonnays represent the pinnacle of what this grape is capable of achieving in California. I would not be surprised to see the 1990 Chardonnay-McCrea Vineyard approach, and possibly eclipse the quality of the Durrell. A more austere wine at the moment, it is dominated by scents of minerals, lemons, and subtle, buttery fruit. While it is lighter in the mouth, there is a super inner core of richness, and the finish is as graceful as it is stylish. Although it possesses a polite personality, there is plenty of underlying depth, so this wine should evolve effortlessly over the next 4-5 years.
The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well.
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