There is only half the normal production of the Condrieu La Doriane (100% barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage) in 2003 because of the vintage’s absurdly low yields. What is in the bottle, however, is spectacular. An exotic, flamboyant white, it boasts marvelous concentration, huge fruit, and a fragrant perfume of smoke, honeysuckle, and confiture of white currants. Drink it over the next 1-3 years. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Performs Condrieu's unique trick—delivers lots of showy floral, peach, melon, mango and fig notes along with a long, creamy, smoky finish that manages to avoid being blowsy. Beautiful. Drink now. 375 cases made. -JM