Looking back at what was a truly profound vintage for Condrieu, both of Guigal’s cuvees of 2004 are still going strong, and still revealing wonderful aromatics and flavor intensity. No doubt this vintage, which also had high acidity, much like 2005, has added a dimension of limited longevity to Condrieu that it rarely possesses. Almost as good as the magnificent 2005, the 2004 Condrieu La Doriane is showing even better this year than it did last. This wine, which is 100% barrel-fermented and aged on its lees with routine batonnage, has exceptionally intense notes of litchi, almonds, marzipan, and honeyed tropical fruits in a full-bodied, unctuous style that is buttressed by tremendous acidity. This is an amazing example of Condrieu year in and year out. Importer: Fred Ek and Patrick Will, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, Solvang, CA; tel. (805) 686-9153

Tropical for the vintage, with butter and mango flavors leading the way, followed by hints of almond and toast. Round and fat with a long, butter- and anise-filled finish. Quite showy in style. Drink now. 1,200 cases made. -JM