Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2016 Berliquet (blended of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc) is a little mute to begin, opening out to expressive kirsch, black plums and black cherry compote scents plus nuances of unsmoked cigars and dried herbs. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has fantastic intensity and energy, with a firm frame of ripe, grainy tannins and a lively lift to the mineral-laced finish.

This is a really powerful red with fantastic density and richness. Silky and chewy tannins. Lots of chalky, crushed limestone character. Impressive. Let’s see what is better: the 2016 or 2015.