The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumees-Clos Truffiere is the biggest and richest of these 2009 whites. It shows considerable depth and sensuality in deep layers of fruit that flow effortlessly towads the intense, polished finish. The weight of these 80 year-old vines comes through in the wine’s density and mid-palate richness. This is a gorgeous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I tasted all of these wines with Michel Niellon in his huge warehouse facility just outside of Chassagne. The 2009s are made in a style that emphasizes freshness. Niellon thinks wines peak at 6-7 years after releases and he is clearly going for an accessible style. That said, I found all the wines all shows better with air, except for the Chevalier, which unfortunately remained stubborn throughout my visit. I hope to have a chance to retaste it in the future. The 2009s saw 25% new oak. The wines are racked in July, after the malos, and were bottled before the 2010 harvest. Niellon told me he might pursue longer elevage for some of his wines now that space is not a constraint. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400