From 40- to 50-year-old vines across the communal boundary from Mazoyeres-Chambertin, Lignier’s 2005 Morey-St.-Denis Aux Charmes displays the resinous, smoky, and black-fruited aromatics that typify so many 2005s from Morey, a concentrated, bitter-sweet and slightly medicinal meld of black cherry, black raspberry, and bitter herbs on the palate, and an invigorating, fresh, juicy finish underlain by solid senses of meat and mineral. This exhibits the most refined tannins so far in the Lignier line-up and is likely to benefit from 5-7 years in the cellar. Virgile Lignier elected not to filter his 2005s, but I suspected that a couple of them were suffering slightly from their very recent bottling. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($25.00; 86), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00;86+?), 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin ($53.00; 86+?). Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.