The 2010 Morey St. Denis Aux Charmes shows gorgeous aromatic lift and sheer energy. Deep, spiced notes meld into black fruit, mineral and flowers as the wine opens up in the glass. The Charmes is beautifully focused and articulated throughout, but it will require some time in bottle before being fully ready to drink. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2025.
Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins.
A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404
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