Aromatically, the 1997 Riesling St. Hippolyte (a granite-dominated terroir) offers grapefruits and stones. This lime, lemon, crisp apple, and chalk-flavored wine is light-to-medium-bodied, lively, and highly-focused. It is concentrated and backward, requiring a year or two of cellaring. Drink it between 2000 and 2005. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.