The blockbuster 1998 Vendimia Seleccionada boasts an opaque purple color as well as huge, full-bodied flavors of sweet creme de cassis, blackberries, licorice, creosote, new saddle leather, and spicy oak. Layered and seamless, with a tremendous finish, it will last for 15-20 years. Importer: a Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

This wine has already been bottled, but likely won’t reach U.S. shores until 2002. It needs the additional time, because aromatically it’s closed right now, tight as a drum. Still, you can taste the potential in its earthy, dark fruit and coffee flavors. With this kind of depth and intensity and a long, supple but tannic finish, 91 points may seem conservative in five years’ time. ——J.C.(11/1/2001)—— 91