The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Generations needs a good 8-10 years of cellaring – it’s that backward and massive. A mammoth, masculine wine that has huge tannin, equally impressive extract, and richness, and a very long finish with notes of creme de cassis, graphite, charcoal, and roasted herbs and meats, it is a monster Chateauneuf du Pape, possibly the most backward wine of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035. To repeat what I’ve said in the past, this is a top-flight estate making Chateauneuf du Pape for long-term aging, with the top cuvees essentially as ageworthy as most vintages of Bordeaux. The philosophy is modern or progressive depending on your point of view, with a very liberal use of small oak barrels, but once past four or five years in the bottle, I have always found La Gardine’s Chateauneuf du Pape to be very Provencal despite their reliance on abundant new oak.Importer: Shaw-Ross Intl. Importer

Dominated by toasty, mentholly oak, this is a dark, vibrant purple-hued wine that features plenty of intensity, just not a lot of midpalate richness or complexity. Could improve over time, or could fall apart, so opt to drink it on the young side just in case.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 87