The 2005 Primitivo from Botromagno reveals a plump, super-ripe personality loaded with smoke, dark cherries, earthiness, and leather. It offers notable complexity at this level. This wine will find its greatest admirers among readers who enjoy a full-bodied, very ripe style of wine. Primitivo is believed to be a relative of Zinfandel. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A bit thorny on the initial impact; notes of apple cider, prunes, dried currant, chocolate, almond and black pepper chime in harmoniously. There’s a sour note on the finish but otherwise it’s a perfect everyday dinner wine.——M.L.(8/1/2007)—— 86