A luscious and superior California bubbly, this blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay shows an irresistable richness of raspberry puree, cherry skin bitterness, vanilla, yeasty baked bread and something unidentifiably smoky-sweet. Yet it’s bone dry. With a long, complex finish, it should continue to age beyond this, its tenth birthday.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 93