One of the later-released Cabs from the excellent ’02 vintage, this 100% Cabernet bottling, which comes from the winery’s vineyard near Calistoga, is ultraripe, yet firm and balanced. It’s showing beautifully now, with its wealth of blackberry, cherry, mushu sauce and cocoa flavors, but has the inherent balance for moderate, and possibly longterm, aging.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 93