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酒款
仁益源酒莊

Domaine Marcel Deiss 'Schoffweg' Bergheim, Alsace, France
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酒款類型:
酒莊:
苔絲美人酒莊
產(chǎn)區(qū):
法國 France > 阿爾薩斯 Alsace
釀酒葡萄:
風(fēng)味特征:
肥厚 均衡 酸爽度高 風(fēng)味 圓潤 甜蜜
酒款年份:
2009年
酒款綜述OVERVIEW
關(guān)于“Domaine Marcel Deiss 'Schoffweg' Bergheim, Alsace, France ”的酒款綜述
權(quán)威評(píng)分SCORE
關(guān)于“Domaine Marcel Deiss 'Schoffweg' Bergheim, Alsace, France”的評(píng)分
酒款年份
評(píng)分者
分?jǐn)?shù)
評(píng)分時(shí)間
2009年
eRobertParker.com 由羅伯特?帕克(Robert Parker)創(chuàng)立于1978年,首創(chuàng)100分制,通過《葡萄酒倡導(dǎo)家》雜志為核心進(jìn)行發(fā)布,WA、RP、eRP均指同一評(píng)分。
帕克團(tuán)隊(duì)
87
 
Toasted sesame, nut oils, carnation, and heliotrope scent the 2009 Schoffweg, which thanks to its barrique vinification went dry, an impression furthered by a sense of tannin admittedly less obtrusive than that of the corresponding 2008, and a remarkably high level of acidity for its vintage, a legacy of the moisture retention and high soil pH of this site. A bit of alcoholic heat creeps into the undeniably stubborn finish, removing for me any possibility of charm. There is to be sure less difference in personality (or in my perception of quality) between this 2009 and the corresponding 2008 than I can recall witnessing of any other Alsace pair from these vintages. Deiss would like to attribute that to terroir, and at least as an explanation for the 2009’s acid-retention, I’ll buy that. Furthermore, like the 2008, all I can suggest is that one revisit this in a few years and see whether it has more to give. Jean-Michel Deiss’s chance-taking, late-harvesting attitude made for a 2009 collection at times excessive as measured by one or another parameter, but no one can fault its wines for the lack of personality that afflicts so many others from that vintage. Deiss was at pains to assure me that his single-vineyard 2009s would be more expressive and harmonious by autumn of 2011 although I am skeptical that the sort of awkwardness some of these wines exhibited last November will dissipate, and unfortunately, press of time and wine renders it impossible for me to taste many of the most prestigious Alsace wines twice. Deiss’s belief that diverse cepages which grow together – under the influence of the parcel’s terroir and of one another – tend to ripen together, was certainly tested in both 2009 and 2008, but even someone skeptical of that claim – and we skeptics are surely in the majority – must admit that to the extent under- and over-ripe (or botrytis-inflected) aspects coexist in one and the same wine, this need not always manifest itself as disharmony but sometimes instead can generate welcome tension, a tension especially beneficial in the context of noticeable sweetness, and something like seems to have happened with the exciting 2008s at this address. Jean-Michel Deiss remarked – apropos the preponderance of residually sweet wines at his estate (like so many in Alsace) – that with his vineyard and cellar environment, if he really wants a wine to go to dryness, he needs to work with it in barrique, otherwise he would need in most years to employ cultured yeasts, something he eschews – as he puts it – “on moral, not just aesthetic grounds, because I am not about to serve the industry that produces them.” That said, the healthy fruit and happy yeasts of 2009 as well as the high acidity of 2008 conspired to render more of the wines from these collections dry-tasting than is usual chez Deiss. Incidentally, Deiss has begun printing “premier cru” on the labels of those from among his single-vineyard blends that are not from officially grand cru-rated sites. Perhaps he feels emboldened to challenge the authorities not only because a certain amount of contrariness is in his nature, but because he has been deputized to take the lead in organizing growers around deciding what will define and constitute in Alsace the “A.O.P., “I.G.P.,” and other newly EU-mandated wine categories. Mathieu Deiss, incidentally, is taking on an increasing role at his family’s estate, and was almost as eager to discuss the wines and vines on the occasion of my November visit as his notoriously eager and eloquent father. (For further information on Deiss’s philosophy, his sites and their cepages, consult my reports in issues 175 and 188.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000
本酒款酒莊資料ABOUT WINERY
苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss)
苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss) 苔絲美人酒莊(Domaine Marcel Deiss)是法國阿爾薩斯(Alsace)產(chǎn)區(qū)的酒莊之一,位于離里博維萊(Ribeauville)3公里遠(yuǎn)的一個(gè)叫做貝格海姆(Bergheim)的村莊內(nèi)。   苔絲美人酒莊的主人是一個(gè)歷史可追溯至1744年的古老釀酒師家族。20世紀(jì)初時(shí),年僅18歲的該家族成員馬塞爾•戴斯(Marcel Deiss)選擇了離開故… 【詳情】
本酒款產(chǎn)區(qū)資料ABOUT REGION
阿爾薩斯(Alsace) 圖片來源:www.hugel.fr 阿爾薩斯(Alsace)位于法國的東北角,與德國相鄰。產(chǎn)區(qū)形狀狹長,分為南北兩部分:上萊茵(Haut-Rhin)和下萊茵(Bas-Rhin)。產(chǎn)區(qū)西邊是著名的孚日山脈(Vosges),東邊則是萊茵河(Rhine River)。這條曲折的萊茵河正好成為了德法天然的國土分界線。   從文化上… 【詳情】
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