The 2009 Chardonnay Clare Hyde Vineyard is a beautiful, focused wine. It possesses the textural richness that is typical of this site, but with quite a bit of minerality and freshness as well. Clean saline notes frame the nicely delineated finish. This parcel was planted with Wente clones 17 years ago. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com