Rudi Pichler Kollmutz Weissburgunder Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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Pichler says he elected to take a cautious approach with picking his 2006 Weissburgunder Smaragd Kollmutz, not believing that this variety can deal with high alcohol as easily as can Gruner Veltliner. As is, we are at 14% here, but the wine is elegant and light on its feet, with the slightly higher acidity vis a vis Gruner Veltliner making itself welcome. Raw hazelnut and white peach inform the nose and the juicy, refined, slightly oily-textured palate. Subtly stony mineral suggestions with faintly bitter apple pip, lime and grapefruit zest inform a satisfyingly long, heat-free finish. This is lovely to drink now, but may prove truly ravishing if one gives it 5-7 years in the cellar. Rudi Pichler picked and vinified with his usual sensitivity, thereby achieving a surprisingly broad stylistic range, even though the total length of harvest was unusually short. Flowering here just escaped the period of intense June heat that led to a reduced crop at most Wachau addresses.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700