Jayer's 2006 Cote de Nuits-Villages (informed by three parcels in Corgoloin) delivers bright, high-spirited red fruits; offers a striking sense of sheer viscosity for its vintage, not to mention its appellation; and distributes a dusting of powdery-fine tannin all across the palate. Caramel and praline notes compliment rather than fighting the dominantly fresh fruit, and red meat and stone undertones presage further future complexity. This long-finishing Pinot has plenty of structure and will probably hold up admirably for at least 6-8 years, but I'd see it as no crime to begin drinking it now. Furthermore, it has digested its new wood far more completely than its two Hautes Cotes counterparts. Gilles Jayer is well-known for his wines' concentration, sweetness of fruit, and structure, and it was evident from cask that he had experienced no qualms or compunction about swinging for the fences in 2006, either. Jayer related that not more than 15% of inferior fruit had to be culled from any of his parcels. Malo-lactic transformations were even later and more protracted here in this vintage than in 2005. I last tasted these wines ten days before the commencement of bottling, which on account of their tardy evolution was due to take place the same week for all but one appellation. The likely exception was a Les Damodes "all" two and a half barrels of which still harbored malic acid and were full of gasImporter: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083
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