The best balanced wine of the entire portfolio of 2003s is the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. A complex nose of mineral, kirsch liqueur, raspberries, balsam, and pepper jumps from the glass of this medium to full-bodied, nicely layered, structured, rich wine with notes of black cherry and raspberry. Deep but with lovely ripe tannin, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Ancient vines on the plateau of La Crau give a wine which is relatively soft, almost smooth in character, despite the dry tannins hiding in the background. This will develop more in the way of intense flavors, but it seems it will always be quite a subdued wine. Imported by Kermit Lynch. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 88