The reds begin with the 2005 Dead Horse “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard,” Mark Ryan’s take on classified growth Pauillac. It is composed of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot,17% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot and was aged in 70% new French oak. Deep purple, it emits an attractive array of pain grille, pencil lead, espresso, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied wine with gobs of spicy black fruits, moderate tannin, and good depth and length. It will easily evolve for another 3-4 years and drink well through 2025. Tel. (206) 010-7967; www.markryanwinery.com

This wine is compact, vertically structured and dense with black cherry, cassis, licorice, smoke and graphite. Still quite young, it’s chewy and rough through the finish. Give it a lot of air time and it begins to smooth out; all the right components are there for an excellent follow-up to the outstanding ’04.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 91