A beautiful, Meursault-like Chardonnay from El Molino, the 2005 Chardonnay exhibits notes of buttered nuts, a subtle hint of caramel, honeysuckle, orange rind, and some citrus oil along with terrific acidity, medium to full body, delicacy, and nuance. It is a beauty of restraint yet richness. Drink it over the next several years. Tel. (707) 963-3632; Fax (707) 963-1647

They didn’t let any malolactic fermentation into this wine, a wise decision because you wouldn’t want it to be any softer. Still, there’s a prettiness to the ripe green apple, honey and toast flavors, which are complexed with layers of tropical fruits, spices and lees.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 90