The 1996 red Hermitage possesses the vintage's tangy acidity, as well as a saturated ruby/purple color, and copious quantities of smoke, cassis, fennel, and minerals in the moderately intense, still young aromatics. The wine displays beautiful balance, outstanding purity, and a medium-bodied, rich, elegant personality. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

In 1996 this extraordinary producer of Hermitage made a wine for the long haul. At release, it displayed superb fruit, bacon, anise, and tobacco flavors, all enveloped by huge tannins. Now it is going through a dumb stage, though the structure is there. Give it ten or 15 years and it will become something extraordinary.——W.E.(11/15/1999)—— 94